The On Travel journal
Local highlights, thoughtful routes and practical advice for your next Indian holiday.
Plan your trip to Pangong Tso – the drive from Leh via Chang La or from Nubra via Shyok, permits, where to stay at Spangmik, Man and Merak, what the lake is like each season, and tips for al...
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Heading to Ladakh, Spiti, Kedarnath, North Sikkim or Gurudongmar? Learn what altitude sickness is, early symptoms, how to acclimatise, what to eat and drink, which trips need extra care, and...
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A measured approach to Ladakh planning, with official acclimatisation guidance, realistic overnight stops and room for changing mountain conditions.
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Everything you need for a Leh Ladakh bike trip – the best routes from Manali and Srinagar, ideal season, permits, acclimatisation plan, bike rental, fuel, gear checklist and safety tips for...
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A practical guide to Umling La and Hanle in eastern Ladakh – how to get there, permits, best time, road conditions, stargazing at Hanle's dark-sky reserve, altitude safety and a sample itine...
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Ladakh changes dramatically through the year. Learn when the Manali and Srinagar highways open, the best months for bike trips and lakes, what winter (and the frozen Pangong) is like, and ho...
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Understand Ladakh permits – which places need an Inner Line Permit (Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri, Hanle, Turtuk and more), how to apply online or through an agent, documents to carry, fees, an...
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A realistic Ladakh budget – flights vs road trip, Leh hotels and Nubra/Pangong camps, taxi union rates, bike rentals, Inner Line Permit and environment fees, food and fuel – with sample cost...
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